Steam-A-Seam Tutorial

I think tutorials are so helpful and I've learned a lot from many others by reading theirs . So I thought I'd try6 and give back by sharing a little joy of mine called Steam-A-Seam.I use it often but most recently in a shirt yoke application. Steam-A-Seam (I will refer to this as SAS) is a fusible tape that doesn't gum up your machine needle and it doesn't add unneeded thickness to your fabric.I was making a cotton shirt using McCalls 5587 which has a yoke in back.This is the method I use.

Here's my first tutorial I hope it's helpful..This makes yoke application and top stitching a breeze.First tear of a strip of SAS and apply the sticky side down to inside shoulder seam allowance which has been press and trimmed to 3/4 inches.

Peel away the paper,exposing the fusible webbing.
Apply the folded,webbed edge of the yoke facing to the shoulder seam and outer yoke.

Press with steam and do not move the fabric until it is cool.

Now you are ready top stitch without the worry of slipping layers. I use a blind hem foot to give me straight top stitching.Simply butt the edge of the seam to the lip of the foot and sew.I hope this picture is clear enough to see that the white plastic in my foot is touching the raised edge of the seam. Adjust the foot to the distance of your choice to sew from the edge.I like 1/8 and 3/8. The result is 2 parallel rows of top stitching and a joined yoke in fewer and faster steps than the usual method of hand stitching.It looks equally as nice inside as well.
I also use SAS to attach patch pockets.I respect the art of couture hand stitching but most of the time my sewing time is limited and I need great clothes fast. Try it you'll like it.I finished this shirt and a second this past weekend. I have to sew on the buttons and then I'll post photos.

The Sewing Expo

This past Saturday I went to the Original Sewing Expo in Atlanta with my friend Faye .We shopped,enjoyed fashion shows,and shopped some more. Here's Faye enjoying Vogue Fabrics. She is so much fun. I'm glad she was with me.

Here are the goodies I picked up. The lavender fabric is linen and the booklet are from Louise Cutting.The patterns and double tracing wheel are from Vogue Fabrics.

I also got this fabulous Rowenta iron,which I have already put to the test and I love it ! It steams forever. I've aways hated ironing but after using this baby,it's a cake walk. I even ironed DH work clothes and DD school uniform for the week.They usually iron their own clothes and were quite surprised.

The thing that I like most about the sewing expos are the New Designer Fashion Show.I enjoy seeing how the designers use the a few patterns to create several different looks. They make small changes,use different fabrics and embellishment techniques to make a full and flattering wardrobe. I never make changes and mostly stick to the suggested fabric listed on the pattern envelope. I have returned from this show filled with inspiration. The pattern is just a vehicle,I can take it as far as I want,in any direction. I love sewing!!!

The New Chick

There's a new chick in my sewing room! She has been wearing my clothes but,I don't mind. She's been a great help so far. Her name is Claire. She hasn't been adjusted or belly-padded yet. I'll do that later after some study on how to do it.

One of my Sewing resolutions for this year was to learn more about fitting.This weekend I bought this book to start me on that quest.Many of of the sewing/blogging sisters have this book in their library and have given it the thumbs up. I love blogging.There is so much good advice available. Just ask and you get honest answers,not paid endorsements.I've been reading though it during lunch break at work and I can't wait to get started.I'm going to hold off until after the Sewing Expo in Atlanta, this Saturday.I'm almost too excited about that to concentrate on much else.

I did get some sewing done this past weekend.Last Friday I got this pattern and some fabric from Hancock Fabrics ....

and by 2:00am Saturday morning I finished this shirt and cut out another.I love uninterupted late-night sewing.After sewing until wee hours I got up early enough to hit the yard sales and found this for $1.00.
Old school sewing books are full of forgotten basics(grain line,marking,pressing,etc) and cool retro details.This book is my bedtime read this week. If you should stumble upon this book,grab it.I think you'll like it. I'll be sharing what I learn in future posts.

New Spring Looks

When it's cold and rainy outside I cuddle up to computer and browse the new spring patterns.Here are the ones I plan on buying.This one is top on the list. This is second but I'll make it first because I've already got the fabric for it.
I've seen the anorak in every fashion magazine this month.Oprah is wearing one on the cover of "O" this month.
I love these pants but I'm a little concerned about how they may look on my body.I have no waist and plenty of belly.Hmmm.

You know it going to be a good fashion season when,you like all the views on your pattern covers.

Happy Birthday to Me

Yesterday was my Birthday and it was great.My entire weekend was great.

Friday afternoon, I recieved fabric which I ordered on Tuesday night from Fashionista Fabrics . Is that fast service or what ! Melody is the owner of this wonderful fabric store and she is a delight. I got the latest Burda Plus Magazine also. Melody,you were right.Thank again.

Saturday,I spent quite a bit of quality time with my sewing machine,working on this skirt.

and this top(the blue wrap).

I'm still working on the skirt.I finished the top and here it is. I need help. As you can see,the shoulders are hanging off and the back neckline stands away and doesn't lay flat against my upper back. This is the first time I've had this kind of fitting issue. I was thinking about making a seam in the center back to take up the slack. Please share your ideas on how to fix this and avoid it in the future. I like this style and would make it again.
Sunday,I got B-day gifts and warm wishes. A new dressform is on it's way. Most of my friends know I'm working on my wardrobe and being the sweeties they are,they gave me accessories. Shoes, belts,fabric and jewelry. I spent the day relaxing and in joyeous reflection on the blessing of wonderful people in my life. That also includes my blogging friends.Love ya'll.

It's Alive !

My jacket is finished.You can now call me "Dr.Frankenstein",because this experiment,turned out to be a monster. I spent my entire Saturday, sewing this beast and watching Project Runway-Canada. Every step of the way,I wondered why I just didn't give up and throw it in the trash. I spent a lot of time ripping out seams and cursing one of my sewing heroines,Sandra Betzina. I still like her but,what was she thinking with this construction method? The pattern cover shows the jacket in denim and she has the bottom facing applied after the top part is topstitched,lined and put together.I know this may not sound bad but let me make it clear...I was topstitching thru five layers of denim weight fabric! Two folded edges of facing and the top portion plus lining and interfacings. I was using a size sixteen needle and topstitching thread. Threads were popping and I broke two needles. I went to bed totally fustrated at 1 am. with the partially sewn bottom facing and jacket crumpled in a heap on the floor.

This afternoon after I returned from church,all refreshed,I returned to my sewing room and my monster.To solve the breaking needles and threads problem,I steamed and pounded every seam and fold. I placed the topstitching thread in the bobbin instead of on top and regular thread on top.

The pattern has a strange curving of the sleeves near the inside wrist. It is hidden by the pose of the cover model. I made a poor fabric choice and the jacket is too short and boxy for my rounded figure. I have learned from my mistake so all is not lost.

So with out any further whinning,I present....my Monster.

Here is a close up of the sleeve detail.

Now,I need and easy project and some chocolate to heal my sewing ego. LOL

Sewing Weekend

I did'nt see a lot of patterns to purchase from Buttericks new collection. This one is the only one that is appealing to me. At least during my first viewing.The other dress seem to be the same old stuff with different numbers. Usually I will see another sewing sister in blog world, take one of the "same old stuff"patterns and turn it into an, exciting "must have". Then I'll see more potential.

Here's what I'm working on this weekend. I've already cut,marked and did a bit of sewing.

I'm using a fabric found in the home dec department of Hancock Fabrics. The fabric was really stiff and because the care method suggested was Dry Clean Only,I didn't pre-wash it. Well,after I basted the fronts and backs together and tried it on,it felt like I was wearing a cardboard box.I became disgusted and considered trashing it. I tested a scrap in the washing machine and it came out soft,supple and ,non-damaged.I washed the partially sewn jacket in hot water and dried it in the dryer.I am quite pleased with the results and I'm eager to finish it.

So this weekend,I am staying home and sewing. I'll share my progress all through it.

Plaza Pants and More

Here is the picture of the Plaza Pants (a Sewing Workshop pattern). I love these pants. They are so comfortable. I did'nt have to alter the pattern in any way other than the length. They have a smooth front,elastic waist.

I also made a top and matching shrug from this pattern.

Here is my version.I think I should have made the tank top a little longer. The idea is to get away from wearing oversize t-shirts and sweatshirts, during my weekend errands (fabric and book stores) and leisure activities (hanging out with framily and friends).

Speaking of hanging with friends,I spent Super Bowl Sunday with my sewing buddy Faye

I enjoy visiting her. She is very inspiring,plus I get to see all her latest creations. Faye has a wonderful eye for fine fashion details.You will be in for a treat when she gets her new camera. I returned home loaded with new ideas and a lovely piece of fabric from Faye's stash.

We are planning to attend a sewing expo in Atlanta next month.

Good Shopping

I went book shopping today during lunch and purchased a few goodies. The "Chic Bags"book has been on my want list for a while. It has a lot of fresh looks and great instructions. The "Passion for Patchwork" has quilted projects which I 'd like to make as gift items for gifts.I've done a little quilting(1 table runner) before and it was really relaxing.Several ladies I've recently met at the fabric store, have advised me to take another stab at it.

These magazines are going to the top of the magazine pile next to my bed.To top off the day,when I got home from work my Ebay wins were in the mail box.I guess I've got tote bags on the brain. I love making them. The Athena Blouse pattern is a good basic for my wardrobe makeover. It will probably hit the cutting table Saturday after I return from the fabric store. It's going to be cold and rainy tomorrow.Excellent for staying in a warm dry sewing room

I completed my Plaza pants and a pair of jeans. I'll have to post pictures of the finished products later when DD slows down enough to take photos. Both fit great.This was my first time making a pair of jeans.Now,I have another great reason to avoid the mall.Well,except for accessories and shoes. Here's a picture of the pattern and the denim.The denim has just a hint of stretch and it is super dark. I made view C. I'm so pleased with this pattern.I know I will make at least 3 more pair.

In the Bag

Sometimes I need a quick project.You know, an instant gratification thing. Lately I don't get as much time to sew as I use to,because of my new job.I'm not complaining.I enjoy my job and having more $$$ to spend on sewing stuff. I like to have some sewing time every week. So I think I'll keep a few things instant gratification projects on hand for the busier weeks.

Here is a quick project which I completed Saturday night.

I made view D. It's on display in Hancock Fabrics so please excuse the ceiling view.I should have taken a photo before having it placed on display.

It's so easy and quick. I plan to use this pattern again. I think I would make a great gift to have on hand for those girlfriend birthdays that sometime spring up. The only notions it called for was five 1.5 inch rings and a magnetic clasp. It took 2 hours from cut to finish and that was while doing laundry and watching TV.

I've got my Plaza pants cut and marked. Maybe I can get to them this evening.

Wardrobe Makeover-A Beginning

I have purged my closet of all garments that just don't work. Anything that doesn't fit,is the wrong color,or is just butt ugly has been given the boot. I also did this with my dresser drawers and it leaves me with a lot of empty drawer and half of a closet to refill with better choices.

My daughter helped me with this task and some of her comments(usually said during fit of laughter) about these clothing mistakes were: "Ugly,skanky and "Mom,what were you thinking!" I took a few pictures of some of the clothes I got rid of. Just to give y'all some laughs.Here are my clothing confessions. The Tye dyed t-shirt created during a workshop.This just represents one of 27 tired shapeless t-shirts. The short negligee with furry stuff. This thing is 12 years old and a size 10.Last of all,my muu-muu ,which I wore after I brought my newborn daughter home, 12 years ago.I've been wearing this thing every Saturday and Sunday morning since then. I know it's a shame.

First of all I'm in need of some basics: Black pants,black dress,white shirt and a red dress (Yes, this is a basic that should be in every woman's wardrobe.) Now I don't want to make the basics back to back. I think that could get a little boring. I need plenty of artsy accent pieces that are truly me. So I'll alternate between basics and accents.

First, the black pants.I have selected the Plaza Pants from the Sewing Workshop pattern collection. I have purchased a lightweight wool blend which should drape and press nicely.

I'm off to the cutting table.

The Trench Coat -Finished

I finally finished my trench coat! I like to enjoy the process,so I took my time and payed attention to details.There was a ton of top stitching which I usually try to avoid,because I don't do it well.However,I've decided the only way to improve is with more practice. I found this fabric in the home decor section of Hancock Fabrics a year ago with the intent to make a jacket of some sort,but it got lost in the stash pile.I know it's a little busy but I really like it. When I saw this McCall's pattern,I knew I had to dig the fabric up. I made the beige coat on the pattern envelope. I recently got a job,so I'm no longer a SAHM. I wasn't able to spend as much time sewing as I like. So whenever I did get some sewing time in,I really wanted to make it count. This is the first finished project of 2008. My wardrobe makeover is well underway.

In keeping with one of my sewing goals,I learned a new technique.The Hong Kong facing technique is a method of covering the inside edge of a facing. It's one of those little details that make garments look professional inside.See the little satin edge.

I learned this technique from the book, Power Sewing Step By Step by Sandra Betzina. It's a great book to have in your sewing library.

2008 Sewing Resolutions

Earlier in the month I decided to give myself a fashion makeover. So my sewing goals are in line with that plan.I suppose by putting this out in blogland,I will be compelled to successfully complete my goals. So here goes.

1. Clean out closet and get rid of everything that does not fit.
2. Make a list of wardrobe basics needed. Sew them.
3. Clean out pattern and fabric stash.
4. SWAP-Sew With A Plan
5. Learn to fit a jacket properly
6. Sew weekly
7. Learn more tailored finishing techniques
8. Experiment with Burda World of Fashion Patterns
9. Try a technique from every monthly issue of Threads magazine.

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas !

UFO #1-Done

I finish one of my UFOs. I started this pencil skirt at the beginning of this month and stopped with just the hem to finish. Some how I ended up with 3 skirts in the closet that just needed to be hemmed. I guess I just like to have a little hand sewing to do while watching TV. Now I've got 2 more skirts hems left. I don't want to start the new year with any UFOs.

Here's my version in chocolate brown with a pink RTW jacket.

Inspiration

Often I look for fashion inspiration in catalogs a nd on the internet and can find tons of fashionable looks on thin models. This can be a bit disheartening because I'd like to see fashionable looks on people who look like me and I am far from thin. I'm not whinning about it though.There is no self hate here. One of the many reasons I like sewing blogs so much, is all of women have different figures and sew to dress themselves fabulously.They post a cool designer garment (often runway pics) and then a few days later...BAM... their own awesome version of the look.

I like seeing fashion pics of Jill Scott, Jennifer Hudson, Monique and Queen Latifah. These beautiful women are always styling. Queen Latifah has a fashion line and these pics are a few looks I could see myself wearing.

I'm planning to do my own versions of each outfit including the bag as part of my total wardrobe makeover. I can see a lot of room for embellishments and additional detail which would allow me to use a couple of patterns for several different looks. I think I might have some similar patterns in my stash that could work. Good thing Hancock Fabrics is having a pattern sale.

Joy,Joy,Joy !!!

I had the most splendid time sewing with my new friend,Linda.

We got together at her home for some good sewing fellowship,this past Saturday.The first thing she did was present me with this beautiful Kwik Sew pattern.It was sweet surprise and I love it. She had her sewing room all set up for total sewing comfort and a fantastic sewing library. I worked on a skirt and she worked on a cute top and a pants fitting muslin. I got the chance to see all the cute fashions she had sewn and posted on her blog. Linda is a terrific seamstress ! I had so much fun !

Sunday evening, I cut out this trench coat from a zebra print,I've had in my stash for a year. I hope to release my inner diva for the New Year. I've been watching "Tim Gunn's House Of Style"and "What Not To Wear"and have to decided to give myself a fashion makeover. I'm going for the bold,creative look. Live out loud and in living color.

My Latest Completed Projects

As promised,here are the pictures of my latest projects. This is one of the patterns and fabric I picked up during my shopping trip with my sewing buddy,Faye. This is Mccalls 5520. The fabric has a little metallic fiber running throughout the print.This was really easy to put together.One hour from cut to finish.Next time I'll make it with a smaller neckline.I don't want my bra strap showing.

I did some knitting and felting. This hat is the result. I love the felting process.

I did some crochet.

My daughter Ashley,loves all things pink. She knows how to crochet but, she usually ask me to make this and that. She doesn't like to follow patterns. She's a free style girl.